Showing posts with label Butterflies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Butterflies. Show all posts

Sunday, August 09, 2009

Swinging With Native Vines


Vines are one of nature’s greatest gifts to gardeners. They can cover ugly fences and utility poles, camouflage storage sheds, or bring color, fragrance, and panache to trellises and arbors. Vines fit into almost any available space, whether spilling out of a balcony window box, climbing up the front of a town house, or running free like a ground cover. It is too bad gardeners seldom think to use vines, or else plant the wrong ones by mistake.

There are hundreds of vines and climbers from which to choose. Traditional ornamental favorites include perennials like climbing roses, clematis, and numerous grape varieties; while fast-growing annuals such as sweet peas, morning glories, moonflowers, or climbing nasturtiums have a popular following, especially for porches and trellises.

Unfortunately, there are some real thugs being planted in gardens. These invasive vines, usually “exotic” species, can easily overrun a garden. Some of the best known invasives are kudzu, the “vine that ate the South,” multiflora rose, English ivy, and oriental bittersweet. These noxious vines gobble up yards, forests, and farmland, pushing out our friendly natives. In addition, watch out for porcelain berry, Japanese honeysuckle, and both Chinese and Japanese wisteria, which are still being promoted and sold by mail-order catalog.

Native vines provide the perfect and preferred alternative to these aggressive invaders, and often provide more desirable qualities than their exotic cousins. For example, while wisteria adds a rich, fragrant, and distinctive quality to a home when trained along fence tops, railings, or atop arbors, you can avoid the frost-sensitive Asian varieties and plant American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) instead. The native wisteria has lavender or mauve flowers which not only bloom in late spring, but often will bloom again in September, and usually flower the year after the vines are planted; Asian wisteria can take years and heavy pruning before blooming.

Or consider Japanese honeysuckle. The aroma is intoxicating, but the vines will quickly overwhelm any garden area and continue to strangle vegetation far afield. In fact, gardeners should make a point of eradicating this vine wherever it appears – although perhaps not on someone else’s property. Native coral honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), is a dazzling substitute which twines like the Japanese variety, and offers a rich array of yellowish-red and orange blossoms for about two months during the summer. Coral honeysuckle’s deep floral throat offers a welcome mat for hummingbirds and butterflies, and the red berries which follow are prized by birds.

Oriental and Chinese bittersweet are both colorful invaders to be avoided – and eradicated – while American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is ideally suited for fence coverage, stout trellises, and even as a ground cover. Native bittersweet is prized more for its brilliant reddish-orange fruits and golden fall foliage than for its flowers, but a snow-covered winter garden comes alive when the vine’s bright red seeds attract the attention of hungry birds. Note that bittersweet is dioecious: there are male and female plants, and to produce the desired fruits you must plant at least one male vine in addition to female vines.

In addition to the sometimes staggering beauty of ornamental clematis, there are two native clematis species worth noting. Leather flower (Clematis viorna), is a reddish, bell-shaped flower which can be trained onto a mailbox post, or allowed to amble free as a ground cover. Virgins bower (Clematis virginiana), a late-summer bloomer, almost explodes into heavily-laden panicles of small white flowers. A bit rambling in form, virgins bower works well in gardens seeking a wild or natural look.

Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is as loud and bold as its name. From summer through fall, the vine’s intense scarlet, trumpet-shaped blooms stand out along agricultural fencerows, with vines which clamber up cedar trees or creep across rock faces. The flowers delight children – and hummingbirds – but should not be used in smaller spaces. This vine needs either support or space to spread out, which also qualifies it as a wonderful ground cover.

Like kudzu, English ivy has a ravenous appetite and has often devoured yards and natural areas throughout the East and Midwest. A more suitable and colorful alternative is Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia), which has inspired the name of a railroad line, found praise from conservationists using it for erosion control, and by gardeners enraptured by its crimson-purple autumn foliage. The Scone Palace, ancient crowning site for the kings of Scotland, is perhaps more memorable for the imported Virginia creeper covering its walls and battlements than any other visual feature. Virginia creeper can serve as a ground cover in sunny areas, or cover fences and walls. It will also produce clusters of purple berries delectable to birds.

Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) is one of the toughest and most versatile native vines. It functions as a ground cover, climbs with ease using twining tendrils, and endures the toughest environmental conditions. It features two-inch long, trumpet-shaped flowers reminiscent of trumpet vine, which bloom in spring and feature a scarlet-orange exterior, and yellowish-red throat, attractant to hummingbirds. Flowers are replaced with long seed pods, and the evergreen leaves turn reddish-purple for late autumn and winter color.

You can use a host of vines to accent architectural lines, fill in empty spaces, or mask unpleasant structural features, but using native vines will invite the natural community to your yard, while still offering a rich pallette of color, fragrance, and texture. For more information and plant suggestions, visit “Using Vines in the Garden” at http://bbg.org. Also look for the Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s Flowering Vines, and Allen Lacy’s delightful Gardening with Groundcovers and Vines.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser

Wednesday, August 05, 2009

Raising Children in Your Garden

For many of us, our love of gardening began in childhood, often with a single defining moment, such as kneeling beside a mother or grandmother and setting a few seeds in the soil. That simple act has the power to introduce a child to a larger, wondrous world of color, beauty, and delicious flavors, while instilling forever an appreciation for plants and soil, the web of life, and the rhythm of the seasons.

Of course, launching a child on a horticultural voyage of discovery need not involve rototilling your entire backyard and erecting a greenhouse. A child’s garden can be as simple as a few square feet of planting area that the child can cherish as their own. On the other hand, developing a more extensive children’s garden might help bring out the child in you, while establishing a meaningful family project that everyone can share and enjoy.

Key elements to consider in any children’s garden or gardening activity include fun, success, and variety. Without fun and a playful, positive attitude, gardening becomes a chore, and very few chores become hobbies or passions.

A child’s garden requires imagination and a dollop of fantasy. My earliest memory involves planting what I was told – and still believe – were “magic beans.” They were, in fact, pole beans, large in my small hands, and easily planted by less than precise fingers.

I still recall the excitement of setting the beans in light fluffy soil and seeing sprouts unfurl their first set of leaves and then shoot skywards several days later. I would begin each day thereafter with a visit to these fast-growing plants as they twisted higher and higher up the side of our house. I cannot remember anything else from that period of my life which was as much fun or anywhere near so wonderful.

Selecting plants which practically guarantee success is also important to inspire confidence and fuel a child’s enthusiasm. Excellent candidates include fool-proof seeds, like my magic beans, and easily grown plants like marigolds and zinnias. In addition, it is valuable to include a variety of plants to help maintain interest, and to impart lessons about the different roles plants play. While it might be fun to plant flowers which feature a child’s favorite color, it might be useful to show that plants are more than just pretty or sweet-smelling.

For example, plants can be a source of food, a fact many children (and adults) overlook in a world of pre-packed supermarket salad mixes. Show children where food comes from by helping them to plant and nurture cherry tomatoes, radishes, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, delightfully sweet alpine strawberries, a blueberry bush, and even a pumpkin patch, if space permits. You can combine food and fun by training pole beans to climb up a simple teepee constructed from bamboo poles or long, straight branches. Children delight in sitting inside the teepee, especially in midsummer, when a secret, shady retreat has been created by the twining vines.

Children are also fascinated by plants taller than themselves, especially by bright-faced, towering sunflowers and swaying stalks of corn. Both are easily grown, impressive to watch, and fun to eat – or share with wildlife, which is not always intentional, but contains an important lesson about ecosystems nevertheless. Actually, the lessons children learn about the natural world extend far beyond the growth habits of flowers and vegetables.

Children digging in soil will discover the hidden world of worms and other insects, mostly good and sometimes bad. They can see bees buzzing from blossom to blossom, and can enjoy butterflies as they sip nectar from various flowers. Add some parsley and dill, and a child might be able to witness the entire lifecycle of a swallowtail butterfly, from egg to caterpillar, cocoon to adult.

With a little extra effort, a child’s garden can become an open book for learning, even for toddlers. In Germantown, Maryland, Susanne Brunhart Wiggins developed an alphabet garden for her son with wooden letters purchased over the Internet. The letters were painted in primary colors, attached to aluminum stakes, and mounted in the garden among plants whose name began with each letter. Already the future gardener is associating the bright letters with words, although not all of them are botanical at this point. However, with just a couple of dedicated beds, the family has created an eclectic planting scheme which is as much colorful as instructional.

Older children might also benefit from the addition of a water feature, such as a small pond, in which fish or tadpoles might be watched and wondered over. Add a few rocks and a decaying log to create a zoological hunting ground, where overturned rocks reveal sowbugs, worms, beetles, and other invertebrates.

Above all, as a child grows, their garden will continue to provide new lessons and fresh opportunities for observation and responsibility. While young children may delight in planting seeds or seedlings, watching them grow, and harvesting goodies, an older child will develop a special, mature relationship with the garden. They can take charge of weeding the garden, feeding a compost pile, and protecting their realm through mulching, watering, and even patrolling for bad bugs. As a child grows, so does the garden, until the garden itself becomes the world, and the child a worthy steward of the land.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser

Monday, August 03, 2009

Creating a Butterfly Garden

Butterflies are on the wing! They grace our days with a rare and evanescent beauty. And yet, for all their amusing fluttering and richness of color, they have unfortunately met with much the same treatment as many of the other beneficial organisms in our environment. Their habitat has declined significantly due to the persistent impact of overdevelopment and urban sprawl. Moreover, their very existence is continually threatened by chemical-intensive efforts to eliminate agricultural, lawn, and garden pests.

Some years back, Ron Boender, manager of Butterfly World in Florida, commented that "butterflies are the most sensitive barometer of the entire environment." Their presence around our homes and gardens indicates a vital, healthy ecosystem; their absence, a serious decline in that system's overall health. Another colleague, Frank Elia at the Cecil B. Day Butterfly Center at Callaway Gardens in Georgia, remarked on the irony that while perennial beds and borders are gaining in popularity nationwide -- and would make for fantastic butterfly gardens -- that possibility is frequently ruled out due to the general and rampant use of pesticides in those garden beds.

Why develop a butterfly garden? Beyond the beauty and life that these near-magical creatures bring to our gardens and homes, a butterfly garden provides a biological ark: a unique habitat which aids in the preservation of these often endangered insects. And the butterfly garden becomes a unique habitat for gardeners as well, teaching all of us to live without pesticides, to accept some losses to hungry caterpillars, and to fit in with a natural, evolving system.

Planning and Planting Your Garden

It is important to remember that anyone, anywhere can become a butterfly gardener. The size of your garden is not important -- some gardeners even use window boxes -- and you needn't tear up an established garden -- many successful butterfly gardeners began by incorporating favorite nectar and food sources into existing beds. However, there are a number of important details to consider before beginning.

Location, Location, Location

Ideally, your butterfly garden should be in a sunny area with at least five to six hours full sun. Both the insects and their favorite plants are sun lovers. Also, to help butterflies fly through the garden, land, and take-off, it is recommended that the area be somewhat sheltered from the wind by a wall, hedge, or trees.


Moisture

Although they can "drink" from moist, wet soils, butterflies cannot obtain moisture from open water. Mud puddles or damp sand should be placed in the garden. Try digging a small pit or trench, lining it with plastic, and then filling it with wet sand.

Sunning Areas

Butterflies need areas to perch and spread their wings, allowing sunlight to warm them and raise their body temperature. Chilled butterflies are sluggish and otherwise inactive. Sunning areas can be created by placing flat rocks throughout your garden, keeping old fenceposts clear, or clearing an area of vegetation with wood chips or other mulch.

Selecting Plants for the Garden

Butterflies are very specific in their plant interests. Some plants are favored for depositing eggs -- these then become the "host" plants or food sources for developing larvae or caterpillars. Other plants are prized for their nectar. Sometimes these plants play both roles, though generally host plants only appeal to female butterflies. Also, some butterflies will frequent a wide variety of nectar-rich flowers and host plants, while others will patronize only one single species. The following plant list highlights those genera and species with the widest possible appeal.

When selecting plants for your butterfly garden consider the following: (1) Which butterflies are already in your area? Which would you like to attract? What are their favorite host and nectar plants? Any decent butterfly reference book can help you to identify butterflies and suitable plants. (2) The plant's adaptability to your climate. Most full service garden centers can help you make selections from the following list. (3) General growth habit and appearance. Will the plants you select fit into your current planting design? You may already have many of the plants you need on hand. Some rearranging and interplanting could quickly help you establish a wonderful butterfly oasis with little additional cost and labor. Also, remember to include several varieties of both host and nectar plants in your garden to attract the greatest number and variety of butterflies. Host plants attract female butterflies, provide egg-laying sites, provide food for larvae, and ensure a continued butterfly population in your area.

Nectar-producing plants attract both males and females and provide food for them. When selecting nectar sources, pay special attention to large, single, and upright blooms; they provide better "landing pads" and facilitate nectar extraction. Also, plan for a diversity of colors since butterflies are especially attracted to bright, vibrant colors and striking contrast: bold and brash is often the recipe for success. Lastly, establish year-round color with succession plantings to provide bloom throughout the year: it is both an advantage for yourself as a viewer -- and as a lure for a wider range of butterflies, which have distinct life spans and peak periods of activity.

Dietary Supplements

Many experienced butterfly gardeners increase "visitation" through supplemental feeding sources. These include manures and rotting fruit, which attract a wide variety of butterfly, as well as "home-brews," which are normally low, flat dishes filled with sugar-water, or sugar-enriched beer or wine. Perhaps you can include butterflies in your taste-testing of microbrewery beers!

Pest Control

Most pesticides are harmful either to adult butterflies, caterpillars, eggs, or pupae. Use manual control of pests in conjunction with biological controls and some insecticidal soaps. Remember, too, that healthy soils produce healthy plants: the healthier your plant, the less likely it will encounter stress, disease, and pests.

Plants for Attracting Butterflies

The following lists commonly available plants by their botanical name with common name in parentheses. Please note that many species (indicated by spp.) within a given genus are excellent nectar or food sources. and some plants cited serve as both food plants and nectar sources. Plants followed by the symbol *** attract the largest number of butterflies.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser

Host Plants:

Alcea spp. (Hollyhock)
Anethum graveolens (Dill)***
Antirrhinum spp. (Snapdragon)
Arabis spp. (Rock Cress)***
Asclepias spp. (Milkweed)***
Barbarea spp. (Winter Cress)***
Cassia spp. (Senna)
Celtis spp. (Hackberry)
Daucus carota (Queen-Anne's-Lace)***
Foeniculum vulgare (Fennel)***
Humulus spp. (Hops)
Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet pea)
Lindera benzoin (Spicebush)
Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Poplar)
Lupinus spp. (Lupine)
Malus spp. (Apple)
Passiflora spp. (Passionflower)***
Petroselinum crispum (Parsley)
Phaseolus spp. (Bean)
Prunus spp. (Cherry/Plum)***
Ruta graveolens (Rue)***
Salix spp. (Willow)***
Urtica spp. (Nettle)***
Vicia spp. (Vetch)***
Viola spp. (Violet)

Nectar Sources:

Achillea millefolium (Common Yarrow)
Alcea spp. (Hollyhock)***
Allium spp.
Anaphalis spp. (Everlasting)
Apocynum spp. (Dogbane)***
Artemisia spp. (Wormwood)***
Asclepias spp. (Milkweed)***
Aster spp. ***
Barbarea spp. (Winter Cress)***
Buddleia spp. (Butterfly bush)***
Chrysanthemum spp. ***
Cirsium spp. (Thistle)***
Cleome spp. (Spider plant)
Coreopsis spp. (Tickseed)***
Cosmos spp. ***
Delphinium elatum
Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William)
Echinacea spp. (Purple Coneflower)***
Eupatorium spp.
Fragaria virginiana (Virginia Strawberry)
Heliotropium spp. (Heliotrope)***
Hemerocallis spp. (Daylily)
Iberis sempervirens (Edging Candytuft)
Ipomoea spp. (Morning-glory)
Lantana spp. (Shrub Verbena)***
Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender)
Ligustrum spp. (Privet)***
Lonicera spp. (Honeysuckle)***
Lunaria annua (Money Plant)
Mentha spp. (Mint)
Myosotis scorpioides (Forget-me-not)
Nicotiana alata (Flowering Tobacco)
Phlox spp.
Primula vulgaris (English Primrose)
Rhododendron spp. ***
Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)
Rubus spp. (Bramble fruits)
Rudbeckia hirta (Black-eyed Susan)
Ruellia spp.
Salvia spp. (Sage)***
Sedum spp.
Solidago spp. (Goldenrod)***
Tagetes spp. (Marigold)***
Taraxacum spp. (Dandelion)***
Thymus spp. (Thyme)
Trifolium pratense (Red Clover)***
Tropaeolum majus (Garden Nasturtium)
Viola spp. (Violet)
Zinnia spp. ***

Helpful References:
  • Schneck, Marcus. Butterflies. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1990.
  • Butterfly Gardening - Creating Summer Magic in Your Garden, Xerces Society with Smithsonian Inst., 1990.
  • Tekulsky, Mathew. The Butterfly Garden. Boston: Harvard Common Press, 1985.
  • Sedenko, Jerry. The Butterfly Garden. New York: Villard Books, 1991.