Wising Up to a Water-wise Landscape

As I edit this article, the only flowing water in the western part of the U.S. seems to be a watermain break at UCLA.  Otherwise, it's a desert out there -- and not just where there's always been desert.  But drought is a common problem for much of the country.  During the hottest summer months, our lawns and gardens face a number of environmental challenges which threaten their health and beauty. Wilting and discoloration of lawns and foliage is a common example, as are flowers dropping buds, or tomatoes succumbing to blossom-end rot. And yet these symptoms also herald additional complications, as voracious insect pests and fungal diseases find an easy prey in plants under stress. The root of the problem is soil moisture and whether plants are getting enough to drink during cloudless, 90 degree days.

The solution to dry soils and drought, however, is not simply to run a hose and run up a huge water bill. Watering is very often the most wasteful and expensive of solutions -- with improper watering or overwatering leading to even more short and long-term problems for the landscape. To keep your corner of the globe green, it is best to become water-wise.

Liquid Lawn Care

Lawns are the dominant part of most landscapes. Grass is easy to put in, especially over a large area, but keeping grass green and lush is another story. Lawns are notorious water hogs, with most doting homeowners applying much more water than a lawn really needs, often squandering as much as 100,000 gallons on a typical quarter-acre suburban lot. Fortunately, there are a number of simple water-wise practices that can actually improve the health of your lawn, while saving money, time, and tens of thousands of gallons of precious water.

Stop watering. Although it sounds like lawn care heresy, most grasses (except bluegrass) can safely be allowed to enter a period of dormancy during the driest part of the summer. In fact, dormancy is a natural mechanism to help grass survive drought and heat. Your lawn will recover with the return of rain and cooler temperatures.

Stop fertilizing. The worst possible time in the year to apply fertilizer is in the summer. That jolt of nutrient pushes grass plants to grow unsustainably, risking health and vigor, and interrupting root development when it is most needed. Wait until fall before even thinking about fertilizing.

Grasscycle. Let grass clippings remain on the lawn when you mow, and cut your grass no lower than 3 inches. Clippings are over 90 percent water, and, as they filter to the soil surface, they provide a temporary layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture; taller grass also shades the soil, reducing surface heat and evaporation.

Watering do's and don'ts. If you must water, do it right. Water only in the early morning, never during the day or in the evening; improper watering can lead to fungal diseases or scalded foliage. Do not water on windy days, as breezes only hasten evaporation. Do not water driveways, streets or sidewalks; in addition to wasting water, runoff entering stormdrains can elevate stream temperatures and harm or kill sensitive fish and other aquatic life.

Water lawns only when they need it, normally when foliage appears dull, bluish-grey, or when walking on grass leaves footprints. Avoid frequent and shallow waterings which can cause thatch and shallow, drought-sensitive roots. Lawns require about one inch of water, although no more than once a week. To measure, place a flat pan under the sprinkler until one inch of water has accumulated, then move to a new location. Ensure that soil is moistened to a depth of four to six inches by pushing a screwdriver into the ground as your indicator. Turn off your hose if water starts to spill onto paved areas; wait 30 minutes, and resume watering.

The Water-Wise Landscape

As lawns require about five times more water than other plants in the landscape, the best water-wise practice is to reduce the amount of space dedicated to turfgrass, while also improving the quality of the soil and its moisture-holding ability.

Eliminate the competition. Lawns often run right up to and under trees and shrubs. However, grass roots easily "steal" water from these other plants, while still struggling to survive in the shade. Instead of grass, substitute an organic mulch, such as wood chips, shredded leaves or leaf mold, or plant ground covers -- you can even combine the both options for a low-water, low-maintenance, and attractive planting area.

Expand planting beds. Increase privacy and landscape value by developing "planting islands" in your sea of grass. Plant trees and shrubs in spacious, sweeping beds, rather than individually. Existing trees and shrubs can also be linked together as planting islands by adding an additional tree or two and replacing the lawn area between them with mulch or ground covers. In sunnier spots, "mulch islands" can be established, utilizing ornamental grasses, showy perennials, and hardy native plants. Eventually, over a period of time, these individual "islands" can become the dominant landscape feature, with lawn areas now serving as easily-managed green lakes and open spaces among a more natural, graceful, and beautiful setting.

Mass plantings. Similar to planting islands for trees, it is best to mass plants together, rather than spreading them across a broad area. Massed plantings have a stronger visual impact than a row of annuals dotted in front of shrubbery. Moreover, by grouping plants together according to similar water needs, they can be cared for much more easily, and can more readily care for themselves. A thick, established group of plants will keep out weeds and will shade the soil around their root zones, thereby conserving precious moisture and reducing drastic changes in soil temperature.

Xeriscaping. Although xeriscaping (xeros = dry) originally related to landscaping in extremely dry climates, its principles, which include using water-efficient and drought-tolerant plants, fit well with our water-wise goals. For example, using regionally adapted plants, such as the growing variety of natives, ensures that the plant can handle this area's seasonal temperatures and rainfall, along with other environmental and soil conditions. But non-natives can also be used to add color and texture to the garden, especially those which are suited for dry, sunny locations, like many of the Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, thyme, etc. Generally speaking, silver-grey plants, such as Dusty Miller, Artemisia, Santolina, and so, feature foliage which reflect sunlight, thereby keeping the plant cool and reducing water loss. However, xeriscaping does not mean using only colorless plants, Yuccas and Prickly pear cactus -- it does mean using the right plant in the right place. See below.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. Mulching with organic materials is one of the easiest methods for conserving soil moisture and providing long-term soil improvement. Mulches can be placed on soil up to four inches deep, except over shallow-rooted plants like azaleas. After applying mulch, especially when using wood chips or materials which appears dry, it is advisable to water both mulch and plants thoroughly at first. Dry mulch might otherwise keep moisture from percolating into the soil. Woody mulches are best used around permanent plantings, like trees and shrubs, while finer textured mulches, such as untreated grass clippings, compost, shredded leaves and leaf mold, are preferable for tender plantings, such as annual and perennial flowers and vegetables.

Compost, aerating, topdressing. Improving soil quality will also improve its soil retention ability. Garden beds can be amended by adding compost, either by digging it in manually or rototilling it into the soil, which is best done in autumn or early spring. Existing beds can be improved by using compost as a mulch or sidedressing anytime of year. Aerating a lawn allows air to reach grass roots, helps microorganisms break down organic matter to feed the lawn naturally, and facilitates water penetration. Topdressing is the practice of applying compost to the surface of the lawn up to one-half inch deep, increasing the soil's organic content, enhancing earthworm activity, and serving as a mulch to protect shallow grassroots.

Becoming water-wise can be as simple as changing some everyday practices -- or as involved and comprehensive as changing the face of your landscape. Like most endeavors, your success depends upon a program which matches your interests, abilities, and available resources -- although the ultimate goal of the water-wise landscape is to safeguard our existing water resources, and to provide more time for your other interests.

Copyright 2014, Joseph M. Keyser

Time for a Water-Wise Landscape

During the hottest summer months, our lawns and gardens face a number of environmental challenges which threaten their health and beauty. Wilting and discoloration of lawns and foliage is a common example, as are flowers dropping buds, or tomatoes succumbing to blossom-end rot. And yet these symptoms also herald additional complications, as voracious insect pests and fungal diseases find an easy prey in plants under stress. The root of the problem is soil moisture and whether plants are getting enough to drink during cloudless, 90 degree days.

The solution to dry soils and drought, however, is not simply to run a hose and run up a huge water bill. Watering is very often the most wasteful and expensive of solutions -- with improper watering or overwatering leading to even more short and long-term problems for the landscape. To keep your corner of the globe green, it is best to become water-wise.

Liquid Lawn Care

Lawns are the dominant part of most landscapes. Grass is easy to put in, especially over a large area, but keeping grass green and lush is another story. Lawns are notorious water hogs, with most doting homeowners applying much more water than a lawn really needs, often squandering as much as 100,000 gallons on a typical quarter-acre suburban lot. Fortunately, there are a number of simple water-wise practices that can actually improve the health of your lawn, while saving money, time, and tens of thousands of gallons of precious water.

Stop watering. Although it sounds like lawn care heresy, most grasses (except bluegrass) can safely be allowed to enter a period of dormancy during the driest part of the summer. In fact, dormancy is a natural mechanism to help grass survive drought and heat. Your lawn will recover with the return of rain and cooler temperatures.

Stop fertilizing. The worst possible time in the year to apply fertilizer is in the summer. That jolt of nutrient pushes grass plants to grow unsustainably, risking health and vigor, and interrupting root development when it is most needed. Wait until fall before even thinking about fertilizing.

Grasscycle. Let grass clippings remain on the lawn when you mow, and cut your grass no lower than 3 inches. Clippings are over 90 percent water, and, as they filter to the soil surface, they provide a temporary layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture; taller grass also shades the soil, reducing surface heat and evaporation.

Watering do's and don'ts. If you must water, do it right. Water only in the early morning, never during the day or in the evening; improper watering can lead to fungal diseases or scalded foliage. Do not water on windy days, as breezes only hasten evaporation. Do not water driveways, streets or sidewalks; in addition to wasting water, runoff entering stormdrains can elevate stream temperatures and harm or kill sensitive fish and other aquatic life.

Water lawns only when they need it, normally when foliage appears dull, bluish-grey, or when walking on grass leaves footprints. Avoid frequent and shallow waterings which can cause thatch and shallow, drought-sensitive roots. Lawns require about one inch of water, although no more than once a week. To measure, place a flat pan under the sprinkler until one inch of water has accumulated, then move to a new location. Ensure that soil is moistened to a depth of four to six inches by pushing a screwdriver into the ground as your indicator. Turn off your hose if water starts to spill onto paved areas; wait 30 minutes, and resume watering.

The Water-Wise Landscape

As lawns require about five times more water than other plants in the landscape, the best water-wise practice is to reduce the amount of space dedicated to turfgrass, while also improving the quality of the soil and its moisture-holding ability.

Eliminate the competition. Lawns often run right up to and under trees and shrubs. However, grass roots easily "steal" water from these other plants, while still struggling to survive in the shade. Instead of grass, substitute an organic mulch, such as wood chips, shredded leaves or leaf mold, or plant ground covers -- you can even combine the both options for a low-water, low-maintenance, and attractive planting area.

Expand planting beds. Increase privacy and landscape value by developing "planting islands" in your sea of grass. Plant trees and shrubs in spacious, sweeping beds, rather than individually. Existing trees and shrubs can also be linked together as planting islands by adding an additional tree or two and replacing the lawn area between them with mulch or ground covers. In sunnier spots, "mulch islands" can be established, utilizing ornamental grasses, showy perennials, and hardy native plants. Eventually, over a period of time, these individual "islands" can become the dominant landscape feature, with lawn areas now serving as easily-managed green lakes and open spaces among a more natural, graceful, and beautiful setting.

Mass plantings. Similar to planting islands for trees, it is best to mass plants together, rather than spreading them across a broad area. Massed plantings have a stronger visual impact than a row of annuals dotted in front of shrubbery. Moreover, by grouping plants together according to similar water needs, they can be cared for much more easily, and can more readily care for themselves. A thick, established group of plants will keep out weeds and will shade the soil around their root zones, thereby conserving precious moisture and reducing drastic changes in soil temperature.

Xeriscaping. Although xeriscaping (xeros = dry) originally related to landscaping in extremely dry climates, its principles, which include using water-efficient and drought-tolerant plants, fit well with our water-wise goals. For example, using regionally adapted plants, such as the growing variety of natives, ensures that the plant can handle this area's seasonal temperatures and rainfall, along with other environmental and soil conditions. But non-natives can also be used to add color and texture to the garden, especially those which are suited for dry, sunny locations, like many of the Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, thyme, etc. Generally speaking, silver-grey plants, such as Dusty Miller, Artemisia, Santolina, and so, feature foliage which reflect sunlight, thereby keeping the plant cool and reducing water loss. However, xeriscaping does not mean using only colorless plants, Yuccas and Prickly pear cactus -- it does mean using the right plant in the right place. See below.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. Mulching with organic materials is one of the easiest methods for conserving soil moisture and providing long-term soil improvement. Mulches can be placed on soil up to four inches deep, except over shallow-rooted plants like azaleas. After applying mulch, especially when using wood chips or materials which appears dry, it is advisable to water both mulch and plants thoroughly at first. Dry mulch might otherwise keep moisture from percolating into the soil. Woody mulches are best used around permanent plantings, like trees and shrubs, while finer textured mulches, such as untreated grass clippings, compost, shredded leaves and leaf mold, are preferable for tender plantings, such as annual and perennial flowers and vegetables.

Compost, aerating, topdressing. Improving soil quality will also improve its soil retention ability. Garden beds can be amended by adding compost, either by digging it in manually or rototilling it into the soil, which is best done in autumn or early spring. Existing beds can be improved by using compost as a mulch or sidedressing anytime of year. Aerating a lawn allows air to reach grass roots, helps microorganisms break down organic matter to feed the lawn naturally, and facilitates water penetration. Topdressing is the practice of applying compost to the surface of the lawn up to one-half inch deep, increasing the soil's organic content, enhancing earthworm activity, and serving as a mulch to protect shallow grassroots.

Becoming water-wise can be as simple as changing some everyday practices -- or as involved and comprehensive as changing the face of your landscape. Like most endeavors, your success depends upon a program which matches your interests, abilities, and available resources -- although the ultimate goal of the water-wise landscape is to safeguard our existing water resources, and to provide more time for your other interests.

Copyright 2014, Joseph M. Keyser

Nurturing a Water-Wise Landscape

During the hottest summer months, our lawns and gardens face a number of environmental challenges which threaten their health and beauty. Wilting and discoloration of lawns and foliage is a common example, as are flowers dropping buds, or tomatoes succumbing to blossom-end rot. And yet these symptoms also herald additional complications, as voracious insect pests and fungal diseases find an easy prey in plants under stress. The root of the problem is soil moisture and whether plants are getting enough to drink during cloudless, 90 degree days.

The solution to dry soils and drought, however, is not simply to run a hose and run up a huge water bill. Watering is very often the most wasteful and expensive of solutions -- with improper watering or overwatering leading to even more short and long-term problems for the landscape. To keep your corner of the globe green, it is best to become water-wise.

Liquid Lawn Care

Lawns are the dominant part of most landscapes. Grass is easy to put in, especially over a large area, but keeping grass green and lush is another story. Lawns are notorious water hogs, with most doting homeowners applying much more water than a lawn really needs, often squandering as much as 100,000 gallons on a typical quarter-acre suburban lot. Fortunately, there are a number of simple water-wise practices that can actually improve the health of your lawn, while saving money, time, and tens of thousands of gallons of precious water.

Stop watering. Although it sounds like lawn care heresy, most grasses (except bluegrass) can safely be allowed to enter a period of dormancy during the driest part of the summer. In fact, dormancy is a natural mechanism to help grass survive drought and heat. Your lawn will recover with the return of rain and cooler temperatures.

Stop fertilizing. The worst possible time in the year to apply fertilizer is in the summer. That jolt of nutrient pushes grass plants to grow unsustainably, risking health and vigor, and interrupting root development when it is most needed. Wait until fall before even thinking about fertilizing.

Grasscycle. Let grass clippings remain on the lawn when you mow, and cut your grass no lower than 3 inches. Clippings are over 90 percent water, and, as they filter to the soil surface, they provide a temporary layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture; taller grass also shades the soil, reducing surface heat and evaporation.

Watering do's and don'ts. If you must water, do it right. Water only in the early morning, never during the day or in the evening; improper watering can lead to fungal diseases or scalded foliage. Do not water on windy days, as breezes only hasten evaporation. Do not water driveways, streets or sidewalks; in addition to wasting water, runoff entering stormdrains can elevate stream temperatures and harm or kill sensitive fish and other aquatic life.

Water lawns only when they need it, normally when foliage appears dull, bluish-grey, or when walking on grass leaves footprints. Avoid frequent and shallow waterings which can cause thatch and shallow, drought-sensitive roots. Lawns require about one inch of water, although no more than once a week. To measure, place a flat pan under the sprinkler until one inch of water has accumulated, then move to a new location. Ensure that soil is moistened to a depth of four to six inches by pushing a screwdriver into the ground as your indicator. Turn off your hose if water starts to spill onto paved areas; wait 30 minutes, and resume watering.

The Water-Wise Landscape

As lawns require about five times more water than other plants in the landscape, the best water-wise practice is to reduce the amount of space dedicated to turfgrass, while also improving the quality of the soil and its moisture-holding ability.

Eliminate the competition. Lawns often run right up to and under trees and shrubs. However, grass roots easily "steal" water from these other plants, while still struggling to survive in the shade. Instead of grass, substitute an organic mulch, such as wood chips, shredded leaves or leaf mold, or plant ground covers -- you can even combine the both options for a low-water, low-maintenance, and attractive planting area.

Expand planting beds. Increase privacy and landscape value by developing "planting islands" in your sea of grass. Plant trees and shrubs in spacious, sweeping beds, rather than individually. Existing trees and shrubs can also be linked together as planting islands by adding an additional tree or two and replacing the lawn area between them with mulch or ground covers. In sunnier spots, "mulch islands" can be established, utilizing ornamental grasses, showy perennials, and hardy native plants. Eventually, over a period of time, these individual "islands" can become the dominant landscape feature, with lawn areas now serving as easily-managed green lakes and open spaces among a more natural, graceful, and beautiful setting.

Mass plantings. Similar to planting islands for trees, it is best to mass plants together, rather than spreading them across a broad area. Massed plantings have a stronger visual impact than a row of annuals dotted in front of shrubbery. Moreover, by grouping plants together according to similar water needs, they can be cared for much more easily, and can more readily care for themselves. A thick, established group of plants will keep out weeds and will shade the soil around their root zones, thereby conserving precious moisture and reducing drastic changes in soil temperature.

Xeriscaping. Although xeriscaping (xeros = dry) originally related to landscaping in extremely dry climates, its principles, which include using water-efficient and drought-tolerant plants, fit well with our water-wise goals. For example, using regionally adapted plants, such as the growing variety of natives, ensures that the plant can handle this area's seasonal temperatures and rainfall, along with other environmental and soil conditions. But non-natives can also be used to add color and texture to the garden, especially those which are suited for dry, sunny locations, like many of the Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, thyme, etc. Generally speaking, silver-grey plants, such as Dusty Miller, Artemisia, Santolina, and so, feature foliage which reflect sunlight, thereby keeping the plant cool and reducing water loss. However, xeriscaping does not mean using only colorless plants, Yuccas and Prickly pear cactus -- it does mean using the right plant in the right place. See below.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. Mulching with organic materials is one of the easiest methods for conserving soil moisture and providing long-term soil improvement. Mulches can be placed on soil up to four inches deep, except over shallow-rooted plants like azaleas. After applying mulch, especially when using wood chips or materials which appears dry, it is advisable to water both mulch and plants thoroughly at first. Dry mulch might otherwise keep moisture from percolating into the soil. Woody mulches are best used around permanent plantings, like trees and shrubs, while finer textured mulches, such as untreated grass clippings, compost, shredded leaves and leaf mold, are preferable for tender plantings, such as annual and perennial flowers and vegetables.

Compost, aerating, topdressing. Improving soil quality will also improve its soil retention ability. Garden beds can be amended by adding compost, either by digging it in manually or rototilling it into the soil, which is best done in autumn or early spring. Existing beds can be improved by using compost as a mulch or sidedressing anytime of year. Aerating a lawn allows air to reach grass roots, helps microorganisms break down organic matter to feed the lawn naturally, and facilitates water penetration. Topdressing is the practice of applying compost to the surface of the lawn up to one-half inch deep, increasing the soil's organic content, enhancing earthworm activity, and serving as a mulch to protect shallow grassroots.

Becoming water-wise can be as simple as changing some everyday practices -- or as involved and comprehensive as changing the face of your landscape. Like most endeavors, your success depends upon a program which matches your interests, abilities, and available resources -- although the ultimate goal of the water-wise landscape is to safeguard our existing water resources, and to provide more time for your other interests.

Copyright 2011, Joseph M. Keyser

Water-Wise Landscapes

During the hottest summer months, our lawns and gardens face a number of environmental challenges which threaten their health and beauty. Wilting and discoloration of lawns and foliage is a common example, as are flowers dropping buds, or tomatoes succumbing to blossom-end rot. And yet these symptoms also herald additional complications, as voracious insect pests and fungal diseases find an easy prey in plants under stress. The root of the problem is soil moisture and whether plants are getting enough to drink during cloudless, 90 degree days.

The solution to dry soils and drought, however, is not simply to run a hose and run up a huge water bill. Watering is very often the most wasteful and expensive of solutions -- with improper watering or overwatering leading to even more short and long-term problems for the landscape. To keep your corner of the globe green, it is best to become water-wise.

Liquid Lawn Care

Lawns are the dominant part of most landscapes. Grass is easy to put in, especially over a large area, but keeping grass green and lush is another story. Lawns are notorious water hogs, with most doting homeowners applying much more water than a lawn really needs, often squandering as much as 100,000 gallons on a typical quarter-acre suburban lot. Fortunately, there are a number of simple water-wise practices that can actually improve the health of your lawn, while saving money, time, and tens of thousands of gallons of precious water.

Stop watering. Although it sounds like lawn care heresy, most grasses (except bluegrass) can safely be allowed to enter a period of dormancy during the driest part of the summer. In fact, dormancy is a natural mechanism to help grass survive drought and heat. Your lawn will recover with the return of rain and cooler temperatures.

Stop fertilizing. The worst possible time in the year to apply fertilizer is in the summer. That jolt of nutrient pushes grass plants to grow unsustainably, risking health and vigor, and interrupting root development when it is most needed. Wait until fall before even thinking about fertilizing.

Grasscycle. Let grass clippings remain on the lawn when you mow, and cut your grass no lower than 3 inches. Clippings are over 90 percent water, and, as they filter to the soil surface, they provide a temporary layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture; taller grass also shades the soil, reducing surface heat and evaporation.

Watering do's and don'ts. If you must water, do it right. Water only in the early morning, never during the day or in the evening; improper watering can lead to fungal diseases or scalded foliage. Do not water on windy days, as breezes only hasten evaporation. Do not water driveways, streets or sidewalks; in addition to wasting water, runoff entering stormdrains can elevate stream temperatures and harm or kill sensitive fish and other aquatic life.

Water lawns only when they need it, normally when foliage appears dull, bluish-grey, or when walking on grass leaves footprints. Avoid frequent and shallow waterings which can cause thatch and shallow, drought-sensitive roots. Lawns require about one inch of water, although no more than once a week. To measure, place a flat pan under the sprinkler until one inch of water has accumulated, then move to a new location. Ensure that soil is moistened to a depth of four to six inches by pushing a screwdriver into the ground as your indicator. Turn off your hose if water starts to spill onto paved areas; wait 30 minutes, and resume watering.

The Water-Wise Landscape

As lawns require about five times more water than other plants in the landscape, the best water-wise practice is to reduce the amount of space dedicated to turfgrass, while also improving the quality of the soil and its moisture-holding ability.

Eliminate the competition. Lawns often run right up to and under trees and shrubs. However, grass roots easily "steal" water from these other plants, while still struggling to survive in the shade. Instead of grass, substitute an organic mulch, such as wood chips, shredded leaves or leaf mold, or plant ground covers -- you can even combine the both options for a low-water, low-maintenance, and attractive planting area. [See the posting: Ground Covers: Made in the Shade, August 25, 2007.]

Expand planting beds. Increase privacy and landscape value by developing "planting islands" in your sea of grass. Plant trees and shrubs in spacious, sweeping beds, rather than individually. Existing trees and shrubs can also be linked together as planting islands by adding an additional tree or two and replacing the lawn area between them with mulch or ground covers. In sunnier spots, "mulch islands" can be established, utilizing ornamental grasses, showy perennials, and hardy native plants. Eventually, over a period of time, these individual "islands" can become the dominant landscape feature, with lawn areas now serving as easily-managed green lakes and open spaces among a more natural, graceful, and beautiful setting.

Mass plantings. Similar to planting islands for trees, it is best to mass plants together, rather than spreading them across a broad area. Massed plantings have a stronger visual impact than a row of annuals dotted in front of shrubbery. Moreover, by grouping plants together according to similar water needs, they can be cared for much more easily, and can more readily care for themselves. A thick, established group of plants will keep out weeds and will shade the soil around their root zones, thereby conserving precious moisture and reducing drastic changes in soil temperature.

Xeriscaping. Although xeriscaping (xeros = dry) originally related to landscaping in extremely dry climates, its principles, which include using water-efficient and drought-tolerant plants, fit well with our water-wise goals. For example, using regionally adapted plants, such as the growing variety of natives, ensures that the plant can handle this area's seasonal temperatures and rainfall, along with other environmental and soil conditions. But non-natives can also be used to add color and texture to the garden, especially those which are suited for dry, sunny locations, like many of the Mediterranean herbs: rosemary, thyme, etc. Generally speaking, silver-grey plants, such as Dusty Miller, Artemisia, Santolina, and so, feature foliage which reflect sunlight, thereby keeping the plant cool and reducing water loss. However, xeriscaping does not mean using only colorless plants, Yuccas and Prickly pear cactus -- it does mean using the right plant in the right place. See below.

Mulch, mulch, mulch. Mulching with organic materials is one of the easiest methods for conserving soil moisture and providing long-term soil improvement. Mulches can be placed on soil up to four inches deep, except over shallow-rooted plants like azaleas. After applying mulch, especially when using wood chips or materials which appears dry, it is advisable to water both mulch and plants thoroughly at first. Dry mulch might otherwise keep moisture from percolating into the soil. Woody mulches are best used around permanent plantings, like trees and shrubs, while finer textured mulches, such as untreated grass clippings, compost, shredded leaves and leaf mold, are preferable for tender plantings, such as annual and perennial flowers and vegetables.

Compost, aerating, topdressing. Improving soil quality will also improve its soil retention ability. Garden beds can be amended by adding compost, either by digging it in manually or rototilling it into the soil, which is best done in autumn or early spring. Existing beds can be improved by using compost as a mulch or sidedressing anytime of year. Aerating a lawn allows air to reach grass roots, helps microorganisms break down organic matter to feed the lawn naturally, and facilitates water penetration. Topdressing is the practice of applying compost to the surface of the lawn up to one-half inch deep, increasing the soil's organic content, enhancing earthworm activity, and serving as a mulch to protect shallow grassroots.

Becoming water-wise can be as simple as changing some everyday practices -- or as involved and comprehensive as changing the face of your landscape. Like most endeavors, your success depends upon a program which matches your interests, abilities, and available resources -- although the ultimate goal of the water-wise landscape is to safeguard our existing water resources, and to provide more time for your other interests.

Copyright 2010, Joseph M. Keyser

Helping Gardens Survive Drought

Periodically, severe droughts settle in across various regions of our nation, typically forcing gardeners and other landscapers to make some important decisions in their irrigation habits, especially as both voluntary and mandatory water use restrictions are put in place.

The first, and perhaps toughest, decision involves whether to begin any large planting projects at all. While mandatory water use restrictions will allow for some watering of garden beds, trees and shrubs, private well-owners and other groundwater users may not want to risk their vital and limited water resources on a newly planted butterfly garden, windbreak, or water garden. Moreover, it is never a good idea to plant trees and shrubs after the end of April. Consider putting off any significant planting chores until October, when most larger plants and perennials can get by with a minimum of watering.

With higher temperatures and drought warnings on the horizon, the best use of gardening time might be spent keeping existing plants alive and well. Trees and shrubs planted recently, or even last year, will probably need to be watered throughout the dry summer months, especially after such a dry autumn and winter. This watering can be done by hand with a hose and spray nozzle, although it can take a considerable amount of time to water deeply and properly. Simply spritzing a tree for a couple of minutes will never provide plants with an adequate drink.

A clever and much more water efficient method is to use a bucket with very small pin holes at the bottom which will allow water to drip out slowly, gradually moistening the plant’s root zone. Buckets can be quickly filled with a hose, while the irrigation process will stretch over several hours. Clean milk jugs and old bottled water containers can also be punctured with a pin, and will serve the same purpose, probably allocating several containers for larger trees and shrubs. Most newly planted trees will require between three and five gallons of water per week.

All plantings, whether large or small, new or established, will benefit from a moisture conserving blanket of mulch. Garden beds should receive a generous three or four inch layer. The mulch will keep soil temperatures cooler during hot spells, will conserve soil moisture, and eliminate weeds, which also effectively eliminates competition between weeds and desired plants for available water and nutrients.

Trees and shrubs should also receive a similar three-four inch layer of mulch, broadly applied between the drip-line, the outside perimeter of the tree, and the trunk, although not up against the trunk. It is seldom wise to encourage turf to grow beneath younger trees, as the grass will often out-compete the tree for water.

When using mulch, it is often beneficial to select organic mulches, whether aged, shredded wood mulch, grass clippings, or leaf mold. Leaf mulch is ideal for use around tender herbaceous plants, such as annuals and perennials. Wood mulch is more suited to trees and shrubs, and grass clippings are ideal for vegetables or other tender plants. Inorganic mulches, such as marble chips, can actually create a “heat sump” in hot, sunny areas, which will accelerate the drying of soil and spell doom for plants.

Relief for lawns and gardens might be a close as the nearest downspout. Too often runoff from roofs is directed by downspouts to driveways and streets. A water conscious gardener will want to redirect downspouts across lawns or into planting beds using inexpensive flexible drainpipes. Consider that a modest quarter-inch of rain will deposit 150 gallons of water on a typical 1,000 square foot roof. All of that water could find a welcome home feeding plants instead of asphalt.

Rain barrels are another innovative means for capturing and using seasonal rainfall. Garden catalogs and nurseries frequently provide a variety of styles and sizes of rain barrel, with capacities up to 75 gallons. Most feature mosquito- and child-proof designs, as well as handy spigots and hose attachments, which will allow homeowners to hook up drip irrigation systems. Local do-it-yourselfers can even find plans for building their own rain barrels on the Internet. Homestyle barrels can often be assembled in minutes for less than 20 dollars. Many designs also allow several rain barrels to be linked together to capture and store up to hundreds of gallons of rainfall. In areas more dependent upon groundwater supplies, rain barrel concepts can be expanded to cistern systems capable of harvesting anywhere from several hundred to several thousand gallons. With both rain barrels and cisterns, the cost is roughly equivalent to one dollar per gallon of water captured.

Drip irrigation is one of the most advanced techniques for conserving water and doing more with less. A variety of systems made up of pressure regulators and soaker hose, or drip emitters and micro tubing, are becoming much more readily available. Drip systems can reduce water use up to 75 percent. Simple soaker hoses can be placed around plants, covered with mulch, and will slowly ooze water through a porous membrane. Emitter systems are more costly and may require some additional planning, although a number of landscaping firms and mail-order catalog companies have divisions which specialize in developing these systems, even for free with the purchase of the tubing and other equipment. According to water conservation engineer Amy Vickers, at Amy Vickers and Associates, most home gardens will cost between 50 and 250 dollars in materials, depending on the individual system, although extensive landscapes can cost thousands.

When mandatory water restrictions are put in place, lawn watering will be prohibited and punishable by fines. However, lawns can be helped by grasscycling. Simply let clippings remain on the lawn when you mow, and cut your grass no lower than three inches. Clippings are almost 90 percent water, and, as they filter to the soil surface, they provide a temporary layer of mulch to conserve soil moisture. Keeping grass taller also shades the soil, reducing surface heat and evaporation. You can also assist your lawn by not fertilizing, which only encourages additional foliar growth and demand for water. Lastly, stop worrying. With the exception of bluegrass, most turf varieties will simply enter a dormant phase, snoozing through the heat and drought, and will “green up”with the return of cooler temperatures and, hopefully, rainfall.

Even without mandatory restrictions, it makes sense to adopt a proper watering strategy for landscaped areas. For example, when you must water, do so only in the early morning, never during the day or in the evening. Evening watering can lead to fungal diseases and midday watering can scald foliage. In addition, water applied at midday will evaporate before doing any good, as is also true of watering on windy days, when breezes will hasten evaporation.

When dealing with heavy clay soils, it is best to limit watering to short 15 to 30 minute cycles. Apply water, allow it to soak in, and then water for another cycle. Heavy soils have a lower infiltration rate, meaning that excess water will simply run off and be wasted. Generally speaking, you will only need to water once every five to seven days. Overwatering is a waste of valuable resources and will more readily lead to a host of plant diseases.

Probably within a short time, local media outlets will broadcast information about drought conditions and will issue several types of warning or advisory. The conservation message conveyed by various jurisdictions will vary widely from one location to another. Keep in mind that public water utilities are in the business of selling water, not preserving ecosystems. While well-owners have no water to spare, the majority of homeowners will be assured of adequate supplies by their respective utilities.

The supply issue, however, does not take into consideration the ecological impact of withdrawing water from rivers, lakes, reservoirs, and underground aquifers. In many cases, there will probably be sufficient water for drinking and bathing, even for gardening. However, by wasting water through washing cars or watering lawns during a drought, users are removing water needed to keep aquatic ecosystems healthy and alive. For fish and other aquatic organisms, water is not a convenience or a commodity, it is life itself.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser

Selecting Tough Plants for Tough Times

There are tough days ahead for gardeners across the country. We are already suffering through record-breaking drought conditions, emergency water restrictions, and sweltering heat. But wait, meteorologists are warning that El Nino is on the way, and we might feel its impact as early as mid-summer! Such tough times call for tough plants and a creative new plant palette.

Fear not! Developing gardens around heat- and drought-tolerant plants will not result in desert landscapes of gravel and stone punctuated with the odd yucca or prickly pear. Some of the toughest plants readily available are among the most spectacular in form, color, and fragrance.

If you were contemplating an herb garden to augment your culinary endeavors, you are well on your way to horticultural hardiness. A large number of the most commonly planted perennial herbs actually have pedigrees reaching back to the sun-baked Mediterranean coast. The toughest include the many varieties of oregano and thyme, rosemary, marjoram, mint, sage and bay. In fact, you will need to pay attention to the cold tolerance of some of these heat lovers, especially bay and many of the thymes and sages. Frugal gardeners often prefer to plant the cold sensitive species in pots which they can bring indoors for winter.

Keep in mind that your herbs need not be confined to an herb garden. There are dozens of varieties of thyme which function as superior ground covers in sunny areas, such as borders along driveways and sidewalks, and on steep slopes. These aromatic creepers often feature gold and silver variegated foliage and discretely colorful floral displays. Add to this list of culinary ground covers both prostrate rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus') and the brilliant green and white-variegated oregano cultivar called ‘White anniversary.’

Another excellent key when shopping for plants for your drought-proof garden, either alone or as accent features, is foliage texture and color. Generally speaking, plants with fuzzy leaves, such as the aptly-named lambs ears (Stachys byzantina), tend to enjoy the intense heat and dry conditions which would leave their thin-skinned neighbors wilting. Another soft-haired candidate includes the herb betony (Stachys officinalis), which like its botanical cousin, lambs ears, is available in varieties providing leaf coloration from pure silver and white to greenish-gray, and 12-24 inch summertime flower spikes in dusky pink, lavender and magenta. Some of the scented geraniums, called pelargoniums, also offer velvety smooth leaves with wonderful scents from lime and rose to pine and orange.

Similarly, foliage which is noticeably silver, gray, or white, as seen in the species mentioned above, further tends to reflect intense sunlight, helping plants survive even the most infernal days of summer.

Gray santolina, sometimes called lavender cotton owing to its soft, fragrant foliage, is one of the more popular low-growing evergreen shrubs used in either informal gardens, where the bulbous yellow flowers add a splash of color above the gray foliage , or in formal garden settings, where the plants can be clipped to shape.

Dusty miller is a common name often used for an attractive gray-green annual, with wooly leaves and, unfortunately, a forgettable yellow flower spike. Cut leaves are often used in flower arrangements. It is also the name sometimes applied to Artemisia stellerana or beach wormwood, which is often spotted growing along coastal areas and on sand dunes. The most ornate cultivar of this species is ‘Silver Brocade’, whose felt-like, deeply lobed leaves, give it an aristocratic air.

In fact, the genus Artemisia contains a host of aromatic herbs, the wormwoods, many of which are ideal as drought-tolerant ground covers and low shrubs. Artemisia absinthium is the species which provided the infamous alcoholic beverage absinthe and the flavoring for vermouth. However, even non-distillers will enjoy growing other silver-leaved artemisias, including the ever-popular ‘Silver King’ and ‘Silver Mound’.

Beyond a doubt, however, there is no better source for tough plants than our native landscape. Always remember that native plants were thriving in this area long before human settlement and in-ground irrigation. These species have survived blizzards, floods, and droughts, and are perfectly adapted to whatever climatic conditions are served their way.

Tough native plants and landscapes can, of course, be easy on the eye if they are planned properly. For example, select plants with similar heights and different colors and inter-plant them to create a kaleidoscope effect. In an island bed, mix together tickseed sunflower and threadleaf coreopsis with early coneflower, fire pink, and the ever-sturdy black-eyed susan to suggest a vest pocket wildflower meadow. Also consider planting elegant upright grasses like little bluestem, switchgrass, and broomsedge, either grouped together for a native grass garden, or add splashes of color with sundrops, some of the native Liatris species, and Coreopsis and Rudbeckia species.

Natives can provide both resilient and brilliant ground covers with moss phlox, boasting a dense carpet of floral displays ranging from pure white and pale pink, to red, blue, and purple. They can also offer colorful camouflage or a focal points for a fence or trellis with coral honeysuckle, trumpet creeper, and virgin’s bower.

Native plants are also the food and nectar source for delicate native wildlife such as jewel-like hummingbirds and butterflies. Add their living color to your garden by planting joe-pye weed, gayfeather, Monarda species like wild bergamot and horsemint, and the numerous goldenrod species native to our area.

While it may be warming up, gardeners need to keep a cool head and select plants which can take the heat and drought and the forewarned weather wackiness of El Nino in the months to come.

Copyright 2007, Joseph M. Keyser