Putting Your Soil to the Test

Healthy soil is the single most important ingredient for successful lawns, yards, and gardens. Unfortunately, it is the one element generally overlooked by homeowners as they head into their neighborhood garden center, hell-bent on beating some pest or jazzing up the green in their grass.

The simple fact is that healthy soil produces healthy plants. Period. Anything done to improve the yard or garden which does not consider the needs of the soil is a waste of time -- and potentially damaging both to the soil and to the community of plants it supports.

For the most part, healthy plants do not attract pests and are seldom bothered by the more common plant diseases. Pests are rather an indicator that a plant is suffering environmental stress, whether nutrient deficiencies and unsuitable soil pH, which are also reflected in poor color or discoloration of leaves or disappointing blooming, or other problems impacting root health, and therefore plant health and vigor, such as lack of moisture retention, poor drainage, poor soil aeration, and related factors. Addressing symptoms like insect predation does not solve the real problem, which is the quality of the soil: its structure, pH, organic content, and mineral composition. It is better to correct the problem at its source -- curing "sick" soil -- rather than focusing on pesticide band-aids for undesirable symptoms.

The Root of the Problem

Soil is a complex combination of minerals, organic matter, water, air, and a dynamic ecosystem of microorganisms, worms, and other valuable critters. Through chemical and, especially, biological action, soil provides a sustainable supply of nutrients, moisture, and gases which plants need to grow and thrive. Plants and soil get along just fine together -- the problem seems to be people getting mixed up in the process.

Removing grass clippings and hauling away autumn leaves is akin to strip-mining the earth. And spraying or spreading synthetic chemicals such as fertilizers and pesticides on a lawn or garden can kill, drive off, or otherwise disrupt the beneficial organisms which naturally keep soils healthy and fertile. Over time, this abuse can lead to an accumulation of toxic salts in the soil, impoverished nutrient levels, acidity, and compaction. The gardener has killed the soil with kindness, resulting in a virtual green desert which will need continued, costly, and artificial support, not unlike a hydroponic system. None of which is the desired result, either for the individual -- or the environment.

The first, best step to turn conditions around is to learn more about the soil in your yard or garden, discover what your soil really needs to support your lawn and plantings, and establish a simple program to ensure long-term soil health.


Soil Testing

"Thinking" that your lawn needs various additives and amendments is a dangerous way to proceed. There is very little benefit to be had from lugging home heavy, dusty bags of lime or fertilizer without first taking the time to assess the actual condition of your soil.

In some cases there are visual indicators that your soil is in trouble. For example, large patches of moss in a lawn usually signal acidic (low pH) conditions and poor drainage. Some weeds, especially plantain, are most often found in lawns with heavy, compacted soils, and can also indicate acidic and/or waterlogged conditions. But, again, these and other weeds are only symptoms, and even though they may indicate a low-lime or acid soil, it is more important to conduct a thorough test to determine the correct application rates for lime and other amendments.

Moreover, while there are numerous ways to perform some "home tests" yourself, including a variety of pH test kits, remember that soil pH is only a part of the soil equation. It is almost certainly better to have the testing done professionally, especially by someone who can help interpret the results and direct a remedial course of action. In addition, it is preferable to have a test that covers a range of soil conditions, probably more parameters than any homeowner would care to undertake using $45 electronic pH meters or shaking jars full of soil samples and water to determine soil texture.

You will find that most local garden centers and nurseries provide soil test services, usually for fees in the neighborhood of 20 dollars and up. In addition, many Cooperative Extension Service Soil Test Laboratories will provide mail-order test kits and instructions to homeowners, even to those in neighboring states (should your local or state office no longer offer such services).

Regarding the soil test, there are several things to keep in mind, including the fact that you will need to take samples from at least several areas on your property, and you may need to have several tests run, one for each type of soil use: a test for the lawn, a test for planting beds, and perhaps a separate test for a vegetable garden. For example, when testing the soil for your lawn, you will want to determine an "average" for the overall lawn area: follow the instructions on the kit carefully, cleaning away any organic matter (grass clippings, fallen leaves, etc.), and take at least half a dozen to one dozen samples from different locations. Mix the samples together completely, and send a representative sample off to be tested. If conditions vary dramatically from the front yard to the back, due to exposure, soil type, grading variants, and so forth, you may want to have two tests done, as different care may be required for each area. Use the same protocol for samples from other planting areas. Remember that the soil in a vegetable garden is going to be significantly different from that in a lawn, especially over a period of time, with each respective area having unique needs regarding nutrients, pH, and organic amendments.

The test results will provide solid, scientific, and reliable guidance for improving your soil. A follow-up call to your local Cooperative Extension Service office will also help you develop a basic management program for your yard and garden, either through a personal consultation or through a host of useful publications and gardening tips.

Finally, keep in mind that the testing process is only a snapshot of your soil environment, and recommended amendments are designed to deal with soil conditions at that period of time. Your soil will change from season to season, and from year to year. The best advice is to plan on having your soil tested on a regular basis for the first couple of years, especially if you have never had it tested before, or if your soil test results indicate severe problems. Also, if you are only starting to implement an organic program to undo the ravages of years of chemical applications, it will take a while for the soil ecology -- and, therefore, basic health of the soil -- to recover. After several years of regular testing, you can then reduce your testing frequency to once every couple of years.

Is it worth it? The modest ten to fifteen dollar annual investment in testing will result in healthy soil -- and a sustainable healthy lawn and garden. That should prove worthwhile it itself. Also, you may actually save a significant amount of money traditionally squandered on unnecessary fertilizers and pesticides, with savings that are meaningful both for your wallet and for your environment. Soil health means plant health -- which translates into an environment spared the all-too-common abuses of nutrient runoff, groundwater contamination, poisoned streams, and toxic threats to people and wildlife.

Copyright 2012, Joseph M. Keyser

Green & Easy Lawn Care

Lawns can play an important part in our landscape: providing a welcome, green space for children, backyard barbecues, and other outdoor activities, in addition to their aesthetic value. Lawns also contribute significant environmental benefits: preventing erosion, nutrient runoff, filtering air, and providing natural "air conditioning" during the summer.

However, all of those advantages are lost when lawn care becomes warfare. When children and pets are at risk by crossing treated turf areas, or when sprays endanger the health of individuals who are immune-impaired or suffer from respiratory problems, we have to measure the real costs of lawn perfection. Are nodding violets, tasty spring onions, and edible dandelions so terrible that we're willing to imperil the health of ourselves and loved ones?

Instead of filling shopping carts with toxic solutions, we might borrow from the
Hippocratic Oath and first do no harm. When dealing with nature, less is almost always more. And the best system for lawn care is actually simple and inexpensive.

Mowing Tips

Mowing comprises about 95 percent of lawn care — yet mowers and cutting blades are the most overlooked elements of maintaining a healthy lawn.

Tune up your mower: Either do it yourself, or look for specials for professional tune-ups. An efficient engine will run smoother and faster, cut grass more quickly and evenly, and facilitate grasscycling by chopping grass into fine particles. It will also cause less air pollution, use less fuel, and save mowing time.

Sharpen your blade: Carefully remove the blade and bring it to a shop for sharpening (covered by most tune-ups). Consider buying an extra cutting blade to switch to during mid-season. Sharp blades provide a clean cut that will heal quickly. Dull blades rip and tear grass, opening vascular tissue to disease organisms. Poor cutting also results in lawns taking on a dull, brown appearance — which many lawn jockeys improperly try to correct by fertilizing!

Cut high: Taller grass will develop proportionally deeper, healthier roots, resist drought and summer heat, and prevent most broadleaf weed seeds from germinating. Fescues and Bluegrass should be cut no lower than 2-1/2 to 3 inches; Zoysia at about 1-1/2 inch.

Alter your mowing pattern: Do not use the same pattern or path to cut your lawn week after week. Periodically changing the direction in which you mow will help you avoid soil compaction.

A Proper Diet

Millions of advertising dollars are spent annually to sell fertilizers or "fertilizer programs," especially in the spring, when lawns have no need for supplemental nutrients. Overfeeding is a principal cause of turf disease. A quick jolt of nitrogen applied now will result in a wild burst of growth — and lots and lots of mowing! And the grass will be leggy and weak, unable to handle stress caused by changing temperatures and too much or too little rain. So hold off fertilizing until the fall, when it is appropriate!

Feed your lawn with clippings: When you grasscycle — leaving clippings behind when you mow — you're helping to recycle all of the free nutrients in every grass particle.

Watering

Improper and over-watering is another cause of lawn disease. Unless you are establishing a new lawn or overseeding, you don't need to water at all. Lawns thrive when roots are encouraged — and allowed — to grow deep. Watering creates a hydroponic zone at the top of the soil, making grass lazy and easy prey to drought and the scorching summer sun. Forget watering, and don't worry when fescues and other cool weather grasses brown out during the summer: dormancy is normal -- and inexpensive. Lawns will green-up when cooler temperatures and rainfall return. The environmental and economic cost of keeping a lawn green during the summer is staggering: hundreds of thousands of gallons of water for most lawns. Additionally, improper watering is a major culprit in fungal diseases, especially for folks who water in the evening. Of course, you can always buy fungicides — or you could just stop watering. Incidentally, overfeeding and overwatering are leading causes of thatch. So why bother?

Weeds

Homeowners have been sold an unrealistic picture of a healthy lawn. They expect a perfect monoculture, like a putting green. Weeds are never tolerated, although most of them have more right to be in our soils than the hybridized turf varieties we plant. A vast armada of herbicides is available, many with decidedly lethal brand names. And yet weed control can be chemical-free, for the most part. Perhaps the key ingredient is patience. The fact is that most weeds cannot compete or gain a foothold in a dense, healthy lawn. And weeds can be pushed out by grass — but it will take time. Nature thinks in glacial terms: seasons and years. There are no quick fixes.

Best First Steps

To grow the most vigorous lawn possible, there are certain steps to be followed:

Test your soil: Most states have local Cooperative Extension Service offices that offer soil testing for a nominal cost (usually around five to ten dollars). You can find your local city or county office online or in the phone directory blue pages. In addition, many garden centers also offer soil testing, although the costs are about ten times greater. But a soil test is one of the best investments you can make for your lawn. Test results will tell you exactly what to feed your lawn, how much lime to apply, when to apply those amendments, and much more. As many weeds grow in poor or acidic soils, you can make them go away just by correcting your soil's chemistry.

Aerate your lawn: It's a breath of fresh air for roots and soil, and one of the most recommended practices for relieving compaction, reducing thatch, and encouraging deep and extensive root growth — all of which will force out "undesirables." Some tough weeds, like plantain, will actually thrive in compacted soil — looser, aerated soils will resist such weed incursions. You can rent aerating machines or hire a lawn service.

Select the proper grass variety: Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice on the best varieties of grass for your lawn, considering soil type, exposure, existing grass type, etc. The right grass for the right place will give you long-lasting results.

Make a salad: While you wait for weeds to naturally disappear, you can always hand-pick some of the tougher weeds. Many are edible (another argument against pesticides), while others are attractive and only last a short while. Be sure to remove bulbs, in the case of wild garlic and onions, the taproots of tasty dandelions, and as much of the rootstock as possible of other perennial or pernicious weeds.

Topdressing with organic matter: Instead of fertilizing this year, consider spreading 1/4 inch of compost on lawn areas to further loosen heavy clay soils, break down thatch, and improve soil ecology.

Seed and overseed again: Getting soil in shape goes hand in hand with seeding to develop an increasingly dense lawn. Prepare soil and overseed in the Spring, or overseed after topdressing.

Why Not Relax?

Overall, you will find that working with your lawn is easier than working against it. The best, longest-lasting solutions are the simplest — although they are not the quickest. Balancing the value of human and environmental health against that of an award winning, chemically-dependent lawn, and you will probably decide to change some of your lawn care habits and put up with some weeds.

Copyright 2011, Joseph M. Keyser

Defending Your Turf from Pests & Problems

Part three in a three-part series on environmental lawn care

A well-established, properly maintained lawn is naturally weed and pest resistant -- for the most part. For the other part, we need to consider a few more issues than just mowing, watering, and fertilizing correctly.

One of the great axioms of gardening is to “use the right plant in the right place.” For lawns, this means selecting a turfgrass variety suitable for your growing conditions and the amount of traffic the area will receive. Trying to establish a healthy lawn using the wrong kind of grass is as frustrating (and pointless) as baking a nonfat cheesecake.

For sunny lawns, tall fescue is the most recommended type of cool season grass, combining heat and drought tolerance with resistance to the most common diseases and pests while also holding its own in areas used for recreation.

In shadier areas, fine fescues perform best, although the thinner, more delicate blades are more sensitive to traffic, and also require well-drained soils. Red fescue is a variety gaining in popularity as it becomes established quickly and requires surprisingly little maintenance. In fact, depending on its use and location, it can provide a lush appearance even without mowing.

The most popular warm season grass is zoysia, renowned for its drought and disease tolerance and low maintenance needs. It is also somewhat infamous for invading neighboring fescue lawns and browning out from October until May. Zoysia needs full sun, loathes shade of any kind, and can take years to become fully established.

Naturally, there are other popular varieties, like Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass, as well as numerous cultivars and varietal blends. For the best and latest advice on the newest cultivars and guidance on selecting good seed sources, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office, usually county-based, although you may need to contact the state office. Check the blue government pages of your phone directory, or search online (search cooperative extension service [and add your state or county name]).

One of the goals of cutting grass at the highest possible setting is to shade out many of the noisome broadleaf weeds which need plenty of light to grow, and whose seeds need light to germinate. In addition, providing just the right amount of nutrients and watering properly to ensure deep, dense root development will also help develop a thick mass of turf which can easily shoulder-out most weeds.

Of course, if you are just embarking on this new approach to lawn care, you might still have some weeds needing attention. For some people, simply providing the proper care for a lawn will lead to the decline of most weeds, although it may take a number of years, which is just fine with them. They tolerate a few wild violets, dandelions, and patch or two of clover. It is only a lawn after all.

For the more fastidious, whose lawns are valued gardens of grass, there are several non-toxic approaches worth consideration. One of the most exciting is corn power. Agronomists in Iowa, always looking for new ways to use corn, have discovered that corn gluten is an extremely effective pre-emergent weed control for crabgrass, dandelions, clover, purslane, among others, when applied in early spring. It will not kill existing perennial weeds, but it will prevent seeds from germinating, and also provides a low-dose of organic nitrogen to feed your lawn at the same time.

Some perennial weeds, such as wild strawberry and ground ivy, will thrive only when soils are particularly acidic. Liming will balance the pH of your soil, improving nutrient uptake by grass plants and spelling doom for the weeds. Be sure to conduct a soil test before liming. Soil test kits are usually available for a nominal fee ($5-10) from your local county cooperative extension service; many garden centers and nurseries also provide soil testing, though usually at a substantially higher price ($25-50). (Learn more about soil testing by viewing Putting Your Soil to the Test, April 10, 2009.)

One of the most common problems experienced in our region is compacted soil. Our naturally clay-heavy soils compact readily, which inhibits grass growth, water penetration and drainage, and leads to bald patches and weed growth. Moss is a good indicator of compacted soils in shady areas and plantain of compaction in sunny locations.

You can prevent some compaction by limiting foot traffic across your lawn, never walking on wet grass, and by changing your mowing pattern. Instead of always mowing from north to south every week, alternate with an east-west pattern, or mix in a diagonal or circular pattern.
Aeration is one of the least appreciated measures to ensure a lush, healthy lawn. In many respects, aerating is far more important than fertilizing and liming, and easily worth the investment every several years.

Core aeration is the most effective approach, and you can rent a motorized machine to extract plugs from the soil, although aeration is often best left to professional lawn care services, which can be more cost-effective in the short run. Professionals typically charge 40 to 80 dollars for the average 5,000-10,000 square foot lawn.

Smaller lawn areas can be manually aerated using a spading fork inserted into the soil at a 45 degree angle. Insert tines to approximately four inches and push down, rocking back and forth a bit, and loosening the soil. Repeat this process every 12-16 inches until the entire lawn area is covered.

Aeration also helps to break up thatch, which become problematic when it exceeds a half-inch in depth. Power raking will also eliminate thatch, but requires significant raking and clean-up, while core aeration does it all with a minimum of fuss.

Like many of the weeds we have seen, insect pests are frequently indicators of poor turf conditions, such as a lawn under stress from overwatering, improper watering, and overfeeding.

However, some pests, including sod webworm, chinch bugs, and grubs, may require some additional action. Fortunately, non-toxic organic controls are available, often derived from flowers, fruits, and nuts, in addition to bacterial controls, including Bacillus thuringiensis, (B.t.) a native bacteria commonly found in soil and on plants, and Milky Spore, probably the first and most famous bacterial control agent.

Lastly, some lawns will fall prey to a variety of diseases, from summer patch and fairy rings to rust, powdery mildew, sooty mold, and red thread. These fungal outbreaks and diseases are best controlled by careful attention to nutrient application, soil aeration, and proper watering. In the worst cases, reseeding may be necessary, particularly using a more resistant variety of grass.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser

Environmental Lawn Care

Lawns can play an important part in our landscape: providing a welcome, green space for children, backyard barbecues, and other outdoor activities, in addition to their aesthetic value. Lawns also contribute significant environmental benefits: preventing erosion, nutrient runoff, filtering air, and providing natural "air conditioning" during the summer.

However, all of those advantages are lost when lawn care becomes warfare. When children and pets are at risk by crossing treated turf areas, or when sprays endanger the health of individuals who are immune-impaired or suffer from respiratory problems, we have to measure the real costs of lawn perfection. Are nodding violets, tasty spring onions, and edible dandelions so terrible that we're willing to imperil the health of ourselves and loved ones?

Instead of filling shopping carts with toxic solutions, we might borrow from the
Hippocratic Oath and first do no harm. When dealing with nature, less is almost always more. And the best system for lawn care is actually simple and inexpensive.

Mowing Tips

Mowing comprises about 95 percent of lawn care — yet mowers and cutting blades are the most overlooked elements of maintaining a healthy lawn.

Tune up your mower: Either do it yourself, or look for specials for professional tune-ups. An efficient engine will run smoother and faster, cut grass more quickly and evenly, and facilitate grasscycling by chopping grass into fine particles. It will also cause less air pollution, use less fuel, and save mowing time.

Sharpen your blade: Carefully remove the blade and bring it to a shop for sharpening (covered by most tune-ups). Consider buying an extra cutting blade to switch to during mid-season. Sharp blades provide a clean cut that will heal quickly. Dull blades rip and tear grass, opening vascular tissue to disease organisms. Poor cutting also results in lawns taking on a dull, brown appearance — which many lawn jockeys improperly try to correct by fertilizing!

Cut high: Taller grass will develop proportionally deeper, healthier roots, resist drought and summer heat, and prevent most broadleaf weed seeds from germinating. Fescues and Bluegrass should be cut no lower than 2-1/2 to 3 inches; Zoysia at about 1-1/2 inch.

Alter your mowing pattern: Do not use the same pattern or path to cut your lawn week after week. Periodically changing the direction in which you mow will help you avoid soil compaction.

A Proper Diet

Millions of advertising dollars are spent annually to sell fertilizers or "fertilizer programs," especially in the spring, when lawns have no need for supplemental nutrients. Overfeeding is a principal cause of turf disease. A quick jolt of nitrogen applied now will result in a wild burst of growth — and lots and lots of mowing! And the grass will be leggy and weak, unable to handle stress caused by changing temperatures and too much or too little rain. So hold off fertilizing until the fall, when it is appropriate!

Feed your lawn with clippings: When you grasscycle — leaving clippings behind when you mow — you're helping to recycle all of the free nutrients in every grass particle.

Watering

Improper and over-watering is another cause of lawn disease. Unless you are establishing a new lawn or overseeding, you don't need to water at all. Lawns thrive when roots are encouraged — and allowed — to grow deep. Watering creates a hydroponic zone at the top of the soil, making grass lazy and easy prey to drought and the scorching summer sun. Forget watering, and don't worry when fescues and other cool weather grasses brown out during the summer: dormancy is normal -- and inexpensive. Lawns will green-up when cooler temperatures and rainfall return. The environmental and economic cost of keeping a lawn green during the summer is staggering: hundreds of thousands of gallons of water for most lawns. Additionally, improper watering is a major culprit in fungal diseases, especially for folks who water in the evening. Of course, you can always buy fungicides — or you could just stop watering. Incidentally, overfeeding and overwatering are leading causes of thatch. So why bother?

Weeds

Homeowners have been sold an unrealistic picture of a healthy lawn. They expect a perfect monoculture, like a putting green. Weeds are never tolerated, although most of them have more right to be in our soils than the hybridized turf varieties we plant. A vast armada of herbicides is available, many with decidedly lethal brand names. And yet weed control can be chemical-free, for the most part. Perhaps the key ingredient is patience. The fact is that most weeds cannot compete or gain a foothold in a dense, healthy lawn. And weeds can be pushed out by grass — but it will take time. Nature thinks in glacial terms: seasons and years. There are no quick fixes.

Best First Steps

To grow the most vigorous lawn possible, there are certain steps to be followed:

Test your soil: Most states have local Cooperative Extension Service offices that offer soil testing for a nominal cost (usually around five to ten dollars). You can find your local city or county office online or in the phone directory blue pages. In addition, many garden centers also offer soil testing, although the costs are about ten times greater. But a soil test is one of the best investments you can make for your lawn. Test results will tell you exactly what to feed your lawn, how much lime to apply, when to apply those amendments, and much more. As many weeds grow in poor or acidic soils, you can make them go away just by correcting your soil's chemistry.

Aerate your lawn: It's a breath of fresh air for roots and soil, and one of the most recommended practices for relieving compaction, reducing thatch, and encouraging deep and extensive root growth — all of which will force out "undesirables." Some tough weeds, like plantain, will actually thrive in compacted soil — looser, aerated soils will resist such weed incursions. You can rent aerating machines or hire a lawn service.

Select the proper grass variety: Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for advice on the best varieties of grass for your lawn, considering soil type, exposure, existing grass type, etc. The right grass for the right place will give you long-lasting results.

Make a salad: While you wait for weeds to naturally disappear, you can always hand- pick some of the tougher weeds. Many are edible (another argument against pesticides), while others are attractive and only last a short while. Be sure to remove bulbs, in the case of wild garlic and onions, the taproots of tasty dandelions, and as much of the rootstock as possible of other perennial or pernicious weeds.

Topdressing with organic matter: Instead of fertilizing this year, consider spreading
1/4 inch of compost on lawn areas to further loosen heavy clay soils, break down thatch, and improve soil ecology.

Seed and overseed again: Getting soil in shape goes hand in hand with seeding to develop an increasingly dense lawn. Prepare soil and overseed in the Spring, or overseed after topdressing.

Why Not Relax?

Overall, you will find that working with your lawn is easier than working against it. The
best, longest-lasting solutions are the simplest — although they are not the quickest.
Balancing the value of human and environmental health against that of an award winning,
chemically-dependent lawn, and you will probably decide to change some of your lawn care habits and put up with some weeds.

Copyright 2009, Joseph M. Keyser